Have you ever wondered how to get good photos when the light is bad? These days, DSLRs are so good in low light, that many people decide they will never use flash, or that flash is always a negative thing.
The truth is though, learning how to use bounce flash has improved my indoor photography so much, that it’s one of the best photography skills I know. It’s amazing what a difference this can make.
When it’s too dark inside or when the light just isn’t good, bounce flash can give you professional looking images, without that “deer in the headlights” look of direct flash. And, when flash is used well, it mimics natural light and won’t even be noticed (other than providing sharper, cleaner images.)
The good news is, you don’t have to be a photography expert to use bounce flash. It’s really a simple technique. All you need is a speedlight that rotates and tilts. Read on.
Here’s the problem with that built-in pop-up flash on your DSLR: That kind of light is too harsh and direct, and the source is too small. (Shooting any flash straight on will give you poor light.)
External On-Camera Flash (Speedlight)
An external on-camera flash that rotates and tilts, though, spreads more light and can be bounced. This kind of flash slips right into your DSLR’s hot shoe, and it can be used on or off-camera. (I’ve only used mine on-camera, but these are really versatile flashes and can be used off camera too.) In Nikon lingo, they are called Speedlights, and in Canon, they are Speedlites.
Using bounce flash with my speedlight inserted into the hot shoe on my camera immediately made my photography look much more pleasing and professional. It is one of the best camera equipment purchases I have ever made.
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How to use Bounce Flash
- This technique will work in the Program mode, Shutter Priority mode, Aperture Priority mode, or Manual mode settings on your camera. I’m pretty sure you can use it in full Auto mode also, but I think the built-in flash will fire too, along with your speedlight (which is what you’re trying to avoid.) So, if you want to use an Auto mode, use Program mode instead. It’s just as easy, but gives you more control.
You will get the most control of the amount of light if you’re bouncing the flash while you’re using Manual mode, but you absolutely don’t have to use Manual mode. When I first got my speedlight, I hadn’t had my DSLR very long, and I was still shooting almost all of my photos in Program mode.
- I usually set my camera’s ISO to about 400 or 800 for this, depending upon the indoor light situation. Your ISO setting will determine how much ambient light will factor in. It’s fun to experiment.
- I use the auto (TTL) setting on the speedlight. (In Nikon, it’s i-TTL, and in Canon it’s E-TTL.) I usually point it at the ceiling straight up or at a side wall, and the flash spreads nice light onto my subject. Sometimes I’ll point it a little forward at the ceiling if my subject is a little farther away, or even a little behind me at the ceiling if the subject is very close. Play around with it. (It’s best if the wall is white or very light, which is why ceilings work well.) I’ve also bounced off a piece of white foam board or poster board.
- By adjusting the angle of the flash, you control where the light will fall, and you can get some really nice directional light.
- You can increase or decrease the amount of flash with the flash exposure compensation button on the back of the speedlight, so the amount of light from the flash is adjustable.
It’s really very simple!
The photo at the top, of my daughter and Sunny was taken several years ago, in our kitchen. That photo was shot in Program Mode. I simply pointed the speedlight up to the ceiling and shot. Had I used the pop-up flash on the camera and shot straight on, there would have been a much more harsh shadow behind them, and the light would have been harsh and flat.
Now here’s an example of direct flash, without bouncing… See what I mean? Ugh, shadow.
Choosing a Speedlight
NOTE: You will need a speedlight that rotates and tilts, in order to bounce the flash. Some of these types of external flash units don’t swivel and tilt, so make sure you’re purchasing one that does.
Although speedlights can be a little bit of an investment, they are so incredibly helpful, when the light isn’t optimal. (And, that can be often.)
But, as you know from this post, I am all about buying photo equipment used. Used equipment, from a reputable camera store either locally or online, can save you a lot of money.
Also, speedlights can be purchased at varying price points, so don’t let the price of one of them scare you off. If you visit a local camera store or have a conversation on the phone with an online vendor, you can be sure to find one that will meet your needs.
I recommend buying the same brand speedlight as your camera, as this makes getting the right lighting much simpler. The third party brands are cheaper, but they may not be quite as compatible. This is another great conversation to have with a knowledgeable camera store person.
I have Nikon DSLRs and use the Nikon SB-600 Speedlight Flash, but there are different ones available at various price points. It swivels and tilts in different directions, so that I can bounce it to get the best light available.
A popular flash for Canon DSLRs is the Canon Speedlite 430EX III-RT Flash. There are other versions of Canon Speedlites, too.
Modifying the Built-In Flash
If you’re not ready to make an investment in a speedlight, there are a few ways to soften the built-in pop-up flash on your DSLR, without spending a lot of money.
One solution that I’ve seen online (but haven’t tried), is to place a small white card (business card or an index card) at a 45 degree angle in front of the pop up flash, so that the light bounces up.
Another option is to tape some tissue paper over the pop-up flash! Try to keep the actual tape from covering the flash if you try that.
There are many times when I need my flash, so I’m glad to know how to use it well! I’ll always be learning new things about flash and new ways to use it.
If you would like to explore bounce flash photography in depth (or even just get some easy to use tips within a video class), I recommend this excellent class at Craftsy. The class gives you great visuals of this technique.
Have you tried this flash technique yet?
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